Used as a medicine long before it was considered a vegetable, celery stalk packs a mighty nutritional punch.

In any discussion of superfoods, celery rarely gets a mention, yet it was a medicinal plant many centuries before it was a culinary one. It was namechecked in Homer’s Odyssey, recommended by Hippocrates and found in traditional Chinese medicine records from 5th century CE. It has an ancient history in Ayurvedic medicine as a treatment for numerous ailments, from colds and flu to arthritis, diabetes and liver and spleen disorders.

The name is derived from the French céleri, the first recorded mention of which was in a 9th-century poem outlining its medicinal virtues. Accounts of its cultivation in gardens date from 16th-century Italy and northern Europe, though still only for medicinal purposes.

The first recorded culinary use of celery was in France in 1623. Though it was mainly used as a flavouring, gradually Europeans began to tame the wild type (known as smallage) into a more appealing vegetable that could even be used in salads. They discovered it was best grown in the cooler months and that blanching (excluding light) made it more palatable.

Medicinal qualities

Celery has been associated with a heap of health benefits and has even been favourably compared to sports drinks in its ability to top up nutrients after strenuous activity, thanks to good concentrations of minerals iron, zinc, magnesium, potassium and calcium, as well as vitamins A, C, E, K and B12, along with its high water content.

In addition to these vitamins and minerals, celery is loaded with antioxidant flavonoids. Coumarin, in particular, has been found to have cancer-fighting actions by filtering out carcinogens and neutralising damaging free radicals. It also works with vitamin C to boost the immune system.
One of celery’s most interesting effects is on blood pressure. Phthalides, phytochemicals present in celery, have been shown to relax artery walls to increase blood flow and reduce blood pressure. Celery’s high levels of fibre, magnesium and potassium also help to regulate blood pressure.
One American study found that daily consumption of a very small amount of 3-n-butylphthalide extracted from celery lowered blood pressure in rats by 12–14 per cent and cholesterol by about 7 per cent. In humans, a comparable amount of phthalide would be found in about four stalks of celery.

That particular study was prompted by the father of one of the researchers, who had been diagnosed with mild hypertension but decided to ignore his doctor’s advice to eat less salt and instead ate about 115g of celery every day for a week. His blood pressure dropped from 158/96 at the start of the week to 118/82 at the end of it.

Celery also has anti-inflammatory and diuretic actions, so is useful for reducing both pain and swelling, especially from arthritis and gout, as well as being good for urinary tract, liver and gallbladder health. All these benefits can be gained from all parts of the plant — seeds, roots, stalks and leaves. So don’t throw those leafy tops out: chop them up for soups and stir-fries.

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Growing

Celery is not easy to grow but, if you are going to use any food for particular therapeutic benefits, growing it yourself will guarantee it’s as fresh and nutritious as possible. Besides, if you do the right thing with feeding and watering you shouldn’t find it too difficult.

Celery seed is very small and fiddly to work with, so it’s easier to plant as seedlings. It prefers cooler weather, not too hot and not too cold. ‘Green Crunch’, ‘Stringless’, ‘Tall Utah’ and ‘Dorata D’Asti’ are some good varieties for the home garden.

Dig in some organic matter before planting and space seedlings 20–30cm apart in well-drained soil. As well as its high demand for water, celery needs feeding, so keep the soil moist and liquid-feed fortnightly. If you let your plants suffer water or nutrient stress, the stalks may become bitter and stringy. Mulch well to reduce moisture loss.

When it’s ready to pick, harvest stalks as you need them from the outside inwards, or cut off the whole plant at the base. Store in the fridge in plastic wrap or containers. Stalks and tops can also be frozen.

CELERY LABEL
Common name: Celery
Botanical name: Apium graveolens
Family: Apiaceae
Requires: Full sun
Dislikes: Heat, drying out
Suitable for: Cool to mild conditions
Habit: Leafy vegetable to 1m high
Needs: Regular moisture
Propagation: Seed, seedling
Difficulty: Moderate to difficult